The middle of the 19th century saw a change in the way children grew up. The common family structure began to move away from the disciplinarian patriarch-centered structure that was so common in the 18th century and started to move towards a more nurturing and modern family structure where both the mother and the father had equal input in raising the children. Children were included in family affairs, given chairs at the dinner table rather than benches or stools, and became generally more outspoken. Childrens' clothing changed too. In the centuries before the 1800's, very little importance was placed on the stages of a child's life. Children were children and that was that. When the change in parenting came about, people came to the realization that children actually matured in terms of age groups, rather than just suddenly becoming adults when they were old enough. The new importance placed on the stages of childhood led to new developments with childrens' clothing.
It used to be that, before the early 1800's, all children wore simple gowns until they reached the age of four. Then, girls were given more adult looking dresses and boys were "breeched", so to speak. Children who were over the age of four dressed like small adults. In the mid-1800's, a new system developed.
Just like before, all children (boys and girls) wore dresses until about the age of four. Rather than giving them adult clothes then, boys were given "knickerbocker suits" or simple smocks and loose pantaloons or trowsers. Girls wore short dresses with corded petticoats or no hoops at all. When boys reached the age of six or so, they were given adult-style clothing. Girls switched to adult clothing from their short dresses a little bit later than boys did, but it was still in the same general age group.
A girl in a fancy short dress and a young boy in an elaborate knickerbocker suit. (postwar tintype, ca. 1870's, artist unknown, Collection of William Chapman)
The dress of boys at the age of 4 to 6 generally had one thing in common, though it varied greatly it was generally composed of a medium-length tunic or jacket and a set of short pants underneath. Boys had one set of clothes for formal wear and another for informal wear. The knickerbocker suit was the most fashionable formal wear available at the time. Generally reserved for spectial occasions when more formal dress was required, the knickerbocker suit was a loose tunic, rather like a short dress, that was worn with a set of knee-length knickerbockers. The rest of the leg was covered with stockings. More often than not, knickerbocker suits were worn with feathered chapeau-style hats. As with much 19th century American clothing, knickerbocker suits had a heavy French influence. Gold braid and twill tape was commonly applied to these garments for decoration, much in the French zouave style. A military influence was very evident in the appearance of knickerbocker suits. Double breasted fronts with brass buttons and applied stripes that immitated the appearance of sword belts were common. These suits were sometimes worn with sashes. A type of formal jacket called a zouave jacket was also common. Zouave jackets bore a resemblance to those worn by many Zouave units during the Civil War.
For informal wear, many boys wore rather large regular shirts untucked like a tunic with no braces. Occasionally, you see one of these being worn with a belt. Small versions of adult trowsers were worn with these tunics. Some evidence shows that this was also the common garb of lower class boys.
Almost all men and boys in the 19th century wore their hair parted on one side.
Three girls in short dresses. The one on the left seems to have a small print fabric while the other two appear to have solid colors. All three are wearing necklaces and earrings. The girl in the middle has a ring on her forefinger. (medium unknown, ca. 1850's to 1860's, artist unknown, Collection of William Chapman)
Girls clothing was very similar throughout their childhood, but it did have some noticeable differences by age. Very young girls, once they graduated from their infant clothing, moved to knee length dresses. These were made of solid-colored or patterned fabric. Some had low necklines that hit at about the shoulder. In almost all examples, either bare legs, pantilettes or stockings are visible under the hemline of the dress.
A young girl (possibly a boy, but unlikely) in a white dress with a blue sash and a feathered hat. She wears black leather shoes and white stockings. Short pantilettes are visible at knee (black line is also visible at the top of left stocking. Garter?). (tintype, ca. mid-1860's to 1870's (probably post-Civil War), artist unknown, Collection of William Chapman)
Once girls reached the age of six or so, they moved to mid-calf or ankle length dresses. These, much like the knee-length dresses, were designed to facilitate freedom of movement. Hoops were seldom worn until the teenage and young adult years, so most girls either wore corded petticoats for formal occasions or did without. Informal dresses were often made of a light material such as cotton. The fabric used in informal dresses tended to be inexpensive, so small prints or solid colors were common. Formal dresses were much like adult dresses, only shortened at the hemline to about the ankle.
Most girls wore their hair parted down the middle.
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